In the heart of Barcelona, just yards from the Plaça de Catalunya on the Passeig de Gràcia, the boulevard that is home to the city’s prime luxury retailers, is a tailor of great distinction and renown. Bel y Cía was established in 1842 as a bespoke outfitter for the best-dressed and most distinguished Catalan gentlemen. A full-service tailor and shirtmaker, the firm is particularly known for their Teba jackets – an unstructured, notchless blazer designed as a shooting jacket and which has become an iconic piece of casual, tailored menswear. The house, commonly known simply as Bel, stocks all manner of accessories and menswear, including the finest quality cashmere and knitwear, ready-to-wear tailored pieces and shirts for both men and women.
Tag Archives: SHIRTS
TOM FORD
Tom Ford is a modern icon, an American fashion designer who is considered to be one of the world’s greatest couturiers and a leading tastemaker. He founded his eponymous label in New York City in 2005 having previously been the creative director at Yves Saint Laurent and Gucci, where he transformed the brand into the global powerhouse it is today. Ford first emerged as a serious design talent whilst at Perry Ellis where he worked alongside his peer, Marc Jacobs. His signature style is overtly modernist, embracing sharp lines and angles, minimalist colour palettes and defined silhouettes, however Ford manages to pay homage to traditional methods and drapes in order to accentuate the figure. This style has won the label a great many admirers, with the brand being a go-to for the best-dressed members of High Society, silver screen stars and titans of industry. Indeed, Ford has regularly been sought out by Hollywood studios to craft bespoke pieces for their wardrobe departments, even dressing Daniel Craig’s James Bond – the manifestation of the British style, the Savile Row suited gentleman. Ford, a customer of Anderson & Sheppard, is an aficionado of the Row and its sartorial legacy. He has carefully studied the tailoring art and the English-style, borrowing heavily from the tradition for his own tailoring service. A full-suite fashion house, the Maison is now split between its beauty and cosmetic offer (owned by Estée Lauder) and the fashion business (under the Zegna group).
ANDERSON & SHEPPARD
A bastion of British tailoring, Anderson & Sheppard has been one of Savile Row’s pre-eminent houses since it’s establishment in 1906. The firm has been the preferred tailor to many international celebrities throughout its history (names such as Fred Astaire, Charlie Chaplin, Gary Cooper, Noël Coward, Laurence Olivier, Cole Porter, and Rudolph Valentino), in part due to the more relaxed structure championed by Frederick Scholte and Per Anderson, the firm’s founder who trained under Scholte. This style marked the firm as maverick young Turks, a counter to the traditional, heavily structured military style that had long defined the Savile Row suit. Anderson & Sheppard and their contemporaries essentially revolutionised the English-style, with the English cut today being synonymous with the silhouetted and drape espoused by this cadre of tailors. The style would attract a young Prince of Wales (later King Edward VIII and latterly, the Duke of Windsor), earning the firm the prestige and honour of being a tailor by appointment to the Court of St James. Many decades later, another Prince of Wales would commission his suits from the house before he too would become King, HM King Charles III. The firm would also become a benchmark reference for the high couture fashion industry, having influenced customers including Tom Ford. No longer on the Row but located off-Row on Burlington Street, today the firm continues the bespoke tradition whilst also supplying a range of ready-to-wear apparel from their nearby haberdashery.
GIEVES & HAWKES
Gieves & Hawkes is one of the grandest of the Savile Row tailoring houses, an institution dating back to 1771. The house is renowned as a military tailor of distinction and a bespoke tailor of choice to many of the world’s best-dressed men. The firm has a long legacy as a tailor by appointment to various members of the British Royal Family and other royals, with the warrants to boot. The brand was formed in 1974 when two established tailoring houses merged, Hawkes & Co and Gieve & Co (pronounced with hard ‘G’). Hawkes & Co was founded in 1771 and had carved out a reputation as a preferred tailor to the most senior British Army officers and members of the Royal Household. Gieve & Co was founded in 1887 when it took over an older studio for whom James Gieve had apprenticed, with a legacy of dressing the most senior officers of the Royal Navy. The military tradition of both houses would come to define the Gieves & Hawkes silhouette and, indeed, the English style of defined shoulders and narrow tapered bodies. Today, the firm continues to offer a bespoke tailoring service together with a wide range of ready-to-wear apparel making them a go-to outfitters for their distinguished clientele.
MARTHA SU MISURA
Martha su Misura is a full-suite bespoke tailoring house just outside of Modena. Helmed by Martha Naudascher, the firm offers made-to-measure and custom shirtmaking, knitwear, suiting and more for men and women. The atelier also manages a small boutique with a range of ready-to-wear items and accessories to outfit their discerning clientele.
GIANNETTO PORTOFINO
Giannetto Portofino is a luxury brand producing indulgent resortwear and comfortable shirting for a well-dressed client base from across Italy. A family-owned shirtmaker in the Italian tradition, the firm uses the finest materials and in-house patterns to cut beautiful shirts, sleepwear and accessories for men. The boutique is located Andria but takes its inspiration from the salubrious resort town of Portofino. The brand was opened as Camiceria Sanfort in 1979.
CAMICERIA TIZIANO
A bespoke shirting house in Milan, Camiceria Tiziano has been outfitting many of Italy’s most discerning and best-dressed clientele since it opened in 1947. The small studio offers a bespoke, custom shirtmakers including luxurious fabrics and detailing. In addition, Camiceria Tiziano produces a range of accessories and handmade neckties. Their Milanese boutique also carries a broad selection of ready-to-wear shirts and accessories.
ZILLI: A LEATHER JACKET EMPIRE IS BORN
The Zilli story begins in 1965 with the foundation of the iconic brand which, today, is synonymous with luxurious apparel and stylish, tailored pieces, especially leather apparel. It was then that a collaboration would begin which would shape the direction of the Maison Zilli line – a collaboration between a French entrepreneur and an established Italian tailor with a reputation for sleek and elegant designs for discerning customers.
ACHILLE MANNARA: A CLASSIC NEAPOLITAN CAMICERIA
Achille Mannara is a classic Neapolitan shirtmaker, offering a range of handmade, bespoke shirting and off the rack options to a discerning, international client base. The camiceria was founded in 1995 and, over the years, has grown their exquisite product range to include various handmade silk ties and accessories to complement their legendary shirts.
LUIGI BORRELLI: FROM MASTER SHIRTMAKER TO LUXURY OUTFITTERS
Luigi Borrelli is a highly reputable menswear store, founded in Naples in 1957. The store was established by renowned Neapolitan shirtmaker, Luigi Borrelli, who sought to continue his family’s trade, having been taught his craft by his mother. His eponymous sartorial outpost became known as a haven for luxurious, handmade and beautifully tailored pieces. Borrelli today has stores across Italy and has recently expanded overseas with its first international branch in Tokyo.
FITZGABRIELS 