Tom Ford is a modern icon, an American fashion designer who is considered to be one of the world’s greatest couturiers and a leading tastemaker. He founded his eponymous label in New York City in 2005 having previously been the creative director at Yves Saint Laurent and Gucci, where he transformed the brand into the global powerhouse it is today. Ford first emerged as a serious design talent whilst at Perry Ellis where he worked alongside his peer, Marc Jacobs. His signature style is overtly modernist, embracing sharp lines and angles, minimalist colour palettes and defined silhouettes, however Ford manages to pay homage to traditional methods and drapes in order to accentuate the figure. This style has won the label a great many admirers, with the brand being a go-to for the best-dressed members of High Society, silver screen stars and titans of industry. Indeed, Ford has regularly been sought out by Hollywood studios to craft bespoke pieces for their wardrobe departments, even dressing Daniel Craig’s James Bond – the manifestation of the British style, the Savile Row suited gentleman. Ford, a customer of Anderson & Sheppard, is an aficionado of the Row and its sartorial legacy. He has carefully studied the tailoring art and the English-style, borrowing heavily from the tradition for his own tailoring service. A full-suite fashion house, the Maison is now split between its beauty and cosmetic offer (owned by Estée Lauder) and the fashion business (under the Zegna group).
Tag Archives: MADE-TO-MEASURE
GIEVES & HAWKES
Gieves & Hawkes is one of the grandest of the Savile Row tailoring houses, an institution dating back to 1771. The house is renowned as a military tailor of distinction and a bespoke tailor of choice to many of the world’s best-dressed men. The firm has a long legacy as a tailor by appointment to various members of the British Royal Family and other royals, with the warrants to boot. The brand was formed in 1974 when two established tailoring houses merged, Hawkes & Co and Gieve & Co (pronounced with hard ‘G’). Hawkes & Co was founded in 1771 and had carved out a reputation as a preferred tailor to the most senior British Army officers and members of the Royal Household. Gieve & Co was founded in 1887 when it took over an older studio for whom James Gieve had apprenticed, with a legacy of dressing the most senior officers of the Royal Navy. The military tradition of both houses would come to define the Gieves & Hawkes silhouette and, indeed, the English style of defined shoulders and narrow tapered bodies. Today, the firm continues to offer a bespoke tailoring service together with a wide range of ready-to-wear apparel making them a go-to outfitters for their distinguished clientele.
KITON
Kiton is a revered brand, well known to the world’s best dressed men. The brand was established in 1968 by Ciro Paone who had already launched a successful apparel company in 1956 in his home city of Naples. He sought to build upon that experience and on the city’s legacy as a global epicentre of fine tailoring and shirtmaking with the launch of his own tailoring house, a house which would use only the finest materials and the most careful and precise craftsmanship. His mission was single-minded: to be the world’s pre-eminent tailoring studio. The brand quickly won over the most discerning Neapolitan gentlemen and grew to become one of the most coveted bespoke suit makers on the planet. Paone expanded his brand to offer a wide range of apparel, accessories and leather goods, with various off-the-rack pieces made to the same exacting standards and high quality as his bespoke options and, as such, Kiton is renowned as a top-tier, quiet luxury brand.
ARTLING
Opened in 2010 as a made-to-measure tailoring establishment, Artling has grown to offer a full bespoke suiting and shirtmaking service to the most dapper of Parisian gentlemen. Famed for their vibrant and quirky flourishes, Artling has developed a reputation as a go-to outfitter in the fashion capital.
MARTHA SU MISURA
Martha su Misura is a full-suite bespoke tailoring house just outside of Modena. Helmed by Martha Naudascher, the firm offers made-to-measure and custom shirtmaking, knitwear, suiting and more for men and women. The atelier also manages a small boutique with a range of ready-to-wear items and accessories to outfit their discerning clientele.
FRAZER HAART
Renowned, Savile Row trained bespoke tailor Frazer Haart opened his proprietary workshop in Bristol over a decade ago. Having perfected his craft at a many of London’s finest sartorial studios, Haart made the decision to go it alone and establish his atelier closer to his home in the West Country. Today, clients can avail of his masterful fully bespoke or made-to-measure tailoring service.
AQUASCUTUM
A legendary outfitter, famous, particularly, for their trench coats which rivalled that of Burberry and DAKS, Aquascutum was founded in 1851 and introduced their iconic waterproof outerwear range in 1853. The firm grew to become cherished by London’s most distinguished clientele, including a great many royals whom bestowed their respective warrants upon the brand. Aquascutum expanded their range to include a full suite of fashions, menswear, womenswear, accessories and tailored items, many featuring their distinctive house check. The brand has undergone a series of ownership changes in recent years with varying degrees of success.
DUNHILL
An iconic British gentleman’s brand, Dunhill, like so many of its peers, started out as a saddlery business that offered various equestrian accessories for well-heeled customers. When Alfred Dunhill took over the family business he began to manufacture various accessories for the motoring enthusiast and for wealthy travellers. A successful foray into smoking accessories for the travel market opened an entirely new business for the brand which opened its first tobacco shop in 1907 and continues to trade in cigars and smoking instruments today, now under the watchful eye of its parent company, Richemont. Dunhill is a quintessential English gentleman’s outfitter, continuing its tradition of supplying “everything but the motor”, with various accessories, leather goods, apparel and even bespoke tailoring.
DAKS
When discussing traditional, iconic trenchcoats fashion experts often cite Aquascutum and Burberry as the classic choices. However, another great house with a similar history and status exists: Daks of London. The label was founded in 1894 and has garnered a loyal customer base and a reputation for excellence in the manufacture of tailored outerwear. The brand also offers a full range of tailored pieces, apparel and accessories for men and women, making it an outfitter of distinction for the well-dressed. Similar to those other rival brands noted above, Daks is also famous for its’ own house check.
RYDER & AMIES: THE CAMBRIDGE UNIVERSITY OUTFITTERS
Ryder & Amies is an historic tailoring house in the heart of Cambridge that has shared an association with the University of Cambridge since its foundation in 1864. The firm has been a go-to supplier of Oxbridge academic wear (sub fusc) and was the preferred tailor, shirtmaker and robemaker to the discerning Cantabrigian student or don for much of their history. Today, they are the official Cambridge University store, providing university-related merchandise as well as outfitting the various clubs and colleges associated with the university. They are still the go-to robemaker for graduating students and for academic dress. The Ryder & Amies store also stocks a wide range of clothing and accessories for students, staff, and alumni, as well as souvenirs for visitors.
FITZGABRIELS 